• Monitor for pests and diseases such as squash vine borer, cucumber beetles, powdery mildew and downy mildew.
• Control broadleaf weeds and grasses as these harbor insect pests and choke out vines.
• Make insecticide applications in the early evening hours when pollinators are less active.
• Pollination from insects is crucial for fruit formation as bees visit both the male and female flowers during peak midday hours. Avoid stepping on or damaging the female flowers found at the further ends of the runners. The male flowers will bloom first and will outnumber the female flowers. Try hand pollination to ensure some fruit set on each plant. See the pictures here to identify male and female flowers on pumpkins and squash.
• New pumpkins will be yellow or green and turn to their intended color as they mature.
• Irrigate thoroughly and evenly using drip irrigation or soaker hoses. This will keep foliage dry and help prevent fungal diseases from setting up.
• Monitor for blossom end rot and apply calcium nitrate as needed.
• Fertilization should be applied at planting and side dressed at vining. Avoid over fertilizing with high nitrogen content to prevent excessive vegetable growth with low blossom set.

A mature pumpkin. Photo by Marcie Wilson

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I save seeds from my pumpkin to plant next year?

A: Yes, but results may vary. If it is a hybrid pumpkin, the seeds may be sterile, or they may not come true to form. If seeds are from a pumpkin patch, there was likely some cross pollination that occurred in the field. If seeds are from a pumpkin you grew in your own backyard, where only one variety was planted, you can save those knowing you will likely get true-to-form pumpkins.

Q: How do I know if my pumpkins or winter squash are ready to harvest?

A: When fruit has reached its mature color and size, and also when the skin is hard and does not dent easily when pushed with your thumbnail, it is fully mature and ready to harvest.

Q: How do I harvest my pumpkins or winter squash?

A: Cut from the main vine, leaving a 2-inch stem to prolong the storage life of the fruit. Leaving long stems is also recommended for carving pumpkins.

Q: How do I save seeds from my pumpkin or winter squash?

A: Save only from open pollinated varieties planted at least 300 feet apart. (A half-mile isolation is ideal.) Remove seeds from fully ripened fruit and clear off all stringy pulp. Rinse the seeds, pat dry and arrange in a single layer on a waxy surface, allowing them to dry fully before storing in a seed envelope or zippered plastic bag. Seeds are fully dry and ready to store when they can be snapped in half. Store in a cool, dark, dry place or in the refrigerator until next year. Seeds are usually viable for up to seven years.

Q: Is my pumpkin edible?

A: Yes, including the seeds. While pumpkins are perfectly edible and tasty, winter squash are typically grown primarily for eating purposes, as well as decor. Check variety descriptions for recommended uses and dishes.

Q: Do I need to wash my pumpkins?

A: Sterilizing pumpkins, especially carved ones, will prolong the life of the pumpkin and help prevent fungal rot.

Q. How long will my winter squash last in storage?

A: Winter squash will last for several months up to a year or longer when stored properly inside at room temperature out of direct sunlight. Ideal storage conditions are low temperature and moderate humidity.