Leafy greens such as collards, kale, lettuce and Swiss chard can be grown by either transplanting or direct seeding. The best choice often depends on the size of your planting, available resources and production goals.
For smaller gardens, transplanting offers better control over spacing, reduces the need for thinning and helps plants establish quickly for an earlier harvest in a limited space. Starting seedlings in a protected environment can also provide a head start on the growing season while other crops are still occupying the intended garden space. In areas where growing space is limited, transplants can allow for quicker crop rotations and more efficient use of available space. Transplanting is especially common for crops like lettuce, where uniform spacing and harvest consistency are often desired.
For larger plantings, direct seeding is usually more efficient and economical. It allows growers to plant large areas quickly without the cost of trays, seed starting mix or greenhouse space. While direct-seeded crops may require thinning and additional weed management, the labor savings can be significant. Direct-seeded plants also develop their root systems in place without the disturbance of transplanting, which can be an advantage.
There are only a few situations where I choose to transplant into a large garden, such as when I want an early crop and need to start plants in the greenhouse ahead of time, or when I am growing a specialty variety with limited seed and want to ensure as much germination and plant survival as possible. For larger plantings, I rely on tools such as a seeder for direct seeding and an auger to make transplanting faster and less labor-intensive when needed.
Both methods can produce healthy crops. Transplanting is often best for smaller plantings and early harvests, while direct seeding is a practical option for larger gardens. Ultimately, the decision comes down to the grower and what works best for your system.

Brassica green seedlings grow in cell trays prior to transplanting into the field. Photo by Molly Lyles

A four-point seeder can be used to direct seed loose-leaf greens that can have smaller spacing. Photo by Molly Lyles

Raised garden beds work well for containing a variety of cool-season greens. Photo by Molly Lyles

This in-ground garden row is being cultivated with a wheel hoe before direct seeding. The loose-leaf greens to the right were previously established using a four-point seeder. Photo by Molly Lyles